We set off from Bodrum, a nice coastal town, at about 6:30am on a 92km trip to Mugla and further. It was a 4 lane highway and we hugged the substantial verges as we cycled along in the cool. Apart from that there was little to recall it, pleasant glimpses of bays was about it for the road.
Turkish drivers are very good. I have broken down the Turkish toot to 3 different types. There is the:
Turkish drivers toots explained
"Watch out I am coming" toot, usually given by buses and trucks, that allows us to pull right as far as we can on narrow roads. Its very nice of them and we appreciate it. Usually followed by a wave.
"Nice going you guys are great" toot. We tend to get lots of them, the drivers can be very enthusiastic about seeing us, heck we may have been the only cyclists they have ever seen in the countryside.
and finally the
"I have a horn and I'm going to use it" toot. Found mostly in the cities where drivers will toot for any reason, and seemingly sometimes none.
After passing Milas the road turned to single lane through the countryside. I liked it the big stone chip made for a bumpy ride sometimes though. The most interesting experience was going through an unlit tunnel, we couldn't see the road at all and it was only the short length that stopped us from having to get off.
Eventually we turned off that road to a country track, a thin sealed road that wound down to the lake. It was frequented more by small herds of cows on the move than vehicles.
Finally we ended up in an amazing lakeside place in the ruins of the city/town of Heraklia, not much was left, it was partially built over by a small primitive farming village but the atmosphere was amazing.
We camped on a farm / campground right in the middle of the ruins themselves with a picturesque view over the lake, and a Byzantine castle a few hundred meters off to one side.
The huge mountains were our backdrop with stunning rock features and these remains, although few in number were around us. We camped on a small farm right beside the water and in the ruins. Behind us was a ruined temple and a couple of hundred meters a ruined Byzantine castle with shattered walls romantically situated on a jutting piece of headland. It was fantastic.
So often, almost on a daily basis, I am reminded that people have lived here for over 4000 years and seen the same scenes, sailed on the same water as I have been. Its significant for a Kiwi with such a small history and I really feel privileged to experience it.
We walked through the simple village, in a place devoid of tourists, in the direction of the ruins behind it.
The mountains behind used to be called in antiquity the "Mountain of lice" a strange name until you look from afar and realize that the rocks resemble giant lice piled in a heap. It also says something about the ancient Romans hygiene that they even considered that imagery.
Looking at the mountains from the inside of the fortress
This place is one of those undiscovered (until now) gems that I must return to one day. not only is it totally authentic, but there are about 20 caves in the mountains where the persecuted Christians hid and built their own churches. There are also ancient cave art pictures from around 8000 years old.
The landscape is unreal, and it deserved far more time than we could devote to it.
Look at this unreal rock, with the old peasant wall in front.
and these ruins of the walls of the city.
Finally we settled down for the night with a sunset over the lake
I have to go but tonight we are in Didyma staying right next door (like right over the fence) from the Temple of Apollo, one of the most significant and important temples in the region. Everyone who was anyone visited it. More on that and pictures to come